If you are looking for fine German wine and food, consider the Franconia region of southeastern Germany. You may find a bargain, Seydel harmonica and I hope that you'll have fun on this fact-filled wine education tour in which we review a local Silvaner white wine. I'll let you in on a secret. A year and a half ago I reviewed a previous vintage of this wine. I liked it so much that I wanted to review it again. In the interest of brevity I have removed the material describing this region which ranks sixth among the thirteen German wine regions. You may access the original article for some ideas about touring the medieval town of Würzburg is the northernmost point of the Romantic Road that passes through Franconia. Let's see what a difference two years makes in what was a surprisingly good Silvaner wine.
OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.
Wine Reviewed
Bürgerspital Würzburg Silvaner Kabinett Trocken 2004 10.6% alcohol about $16.50
We'll start by quoting the marketing materials. The Franken region wines are unique for two reasons. First, their principal grape is Silvaner; and second, they use an unusual bottle known as the bocksbeutel (similar in shape to the Mateus Rosé vessel). In Franken, Silvaner achieves its finest expression. The aromas are full of floral, pear, apple, and mineral notes. Medium to full-bodied, its racy acidity gives it tremendous verve. Pair with freshwater fish. And now for my review. (By the way, I did this review without noting my comments in the previous review.)
I started by sipping this wine. It was somewhat ethereal, mineral, and refreshingly acidic. The first meal involved fried chicken breast (hot off the skillet) and delicatessen bought potato pancakes. This wine was palate cleansing and appely. Some slices of fresh red pepper seemed to denature the wine while giving it a touch of lemon.
Then I went to a chicken thigh casserole cooked with sliced potatoes, sweet potatoes, and onions in a spicy tomato sauce. The acidity cut the grease and the wine was appley and moderately long.
I then went to an Italian sausage pizza (not home made). The Silvaner was refreshing and nicely acidic. It balanced the spices well. As I kept drinking an apple taste developed. A week later I bought a Pepperoni pizza. The wine seemed more powerful than previously. It was palate cleansing, really cutting the grease.
And now for the cheeses. First I tried a genuine Italian Mozzarella de Bufala (water buffalo Mozzarella). While the wine was round and acidic, the cheese succeeded in chopping it down a bit. I guess you just don't mess with water buffalo. The final cheese was a French Morbier made in two layers, once upon a time a morning milk layer and an evening milk layer. Frankly, I'm not enough of a cheese lover to tell the difference. Anyway this cheese was starting to smell. It succeeded in gutting the wine even though it wasn't bad on its own.
Final verdict. I bought this wine twice and have yet to go a second round with many other wines that I liked as well. Part of the reason that I repeated this tasting was my surprise that a Silvaner could be so good. I am not planning to go a third round but am planning to taste another Silvaner, albeit in a more modest price range.
Levi Reiss has authored or co-authored ten books on computers and the Internet, but to be honest, he would rather just drink fine Italian, French, or other wine, accompanied by the right foods and spend time with his wife and family. He teaches classes in computers at an Ontario French-language community college. Among his many web sites he is particularly proud of his new love and relationships site celebrating mostly spiritual and on occasion physical love at . You will find a wide range of articles devoted to various aspects of love, and a special collection of love quotes in both English and French (with translations.) Check out his global wine website at http://www.theworldwidewine.com with his new weekly column reviewing $10 wines.
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